Friday, 9 January 2009

One map and four streets

It is possible to get lost when you only went 5 minutes around the corner from the place you are staying, it seems. At least I managed it when I went out to explore the area around the Red Palm hostel where I was staying. The lady that runs this hostel (Sofie) is amazing and the place is basically like your home: cushions scattered on the floor; kitchen where you can help yourself to tea and coffee and fruit; a terrace area where you can sit out with other people in the hostel. It's a small place, only 14 beds, so you pretty much know everyone who's staying there by default. It also helps that Sofie introduces everyone.

I sorted myself out a Malay sim card almost immediately. I highly recommend taking an unlocked phone travelling; it's so cheap to get a sim card and if you need to make any local phone calls it's great to have. I did the thing same in Thailand.

This first night I wondered around the area near Tengkat Tong Shin and was treated to all the Chinese street food stalls I could ever hope for. I was about the only person eating alone on the whole street though, food is a very communal thing in South East Asia. I ordered a flat noodle dish and an intriguing sour plum and lime juice drink. The total cost was around RM12, a little more expensive than Thailand but still not bad. The lady who served me was a jolly roly-poly Malay lady, who spoke perfect English and jibed with me to bring a friend next time so that I could finish all the food!

The rest of the evening (after I found my way back to the hostel) was spent chatting to Sofie and the other guests at the hostel and I couldn't have felt more welcome in Malaysia.

The next morning I was off out to explore. Up to the KL tower to take in the view and then through the nature reserve giving a wide bearth to the monkeys there (I had heard they have huge teeth). This exertion knackered me out, and I returned to hostel for the evening to recover.

It is so easy to meet people when you're travelling, and I managed to find a friend in a Canadian guy called Scott (who told me tales of rural Canada, cattle herding, the strangest tests of male bravado, cities immersed underwater and the trans-Canada highway) to share my next meal with.

The following day was spent traversing KL with two British guys, Simon and Dom, on a holiday from teaching in Korea and Japan. We ate some amazing Malay-Chinese food at a restaurant just across from the Red Palm (crispy fried egg with sweet soy sauce no less) and spent the next 5 or so hours on foot exploring. Realistically, you can do the sights in KL in 1-2 days. We went to the twin towers, Little India, China Town and Merdeka Square. In the evening we grabbed a few beers, got some Indian food and chatted into the early hours at the Red Palm.

The next morning we had planned to go to FRIM (Forest Research Institute Malaysia) to do a "canopy tree walk" and Sofie had booked Simon, Scott and I a taxi. I didn't really know much about it to be honest but was happy to tag along. We arrived paid the RM5 to go on the walk and began the walk to find the top (500m up). This was less of a path and much more of a "scramble" in the rainforest; the humidity was overwhelming. A few times I thought of my questionable fitness, wondered if I'd survive the 20 minute walk, and thought about going back. However, we made it to the top and, after another 20 minutes to recover, began the canopy walk.

Being slightly cautious when it comes to heights, this walk (a number of metal ladders strung together with cracked boards placed on top of them and some netting around the sides) sent my heart into my throat. I was petrified. The views however made it worthwhile and I felt that today I had achieved something. We then made our way to the Batu Caves where the Hindu festival Thaipusam takes place. This was another 200 odd steps up and required a couple of rests, the caves were rumoured to be full of thieving monkeys who throw rocks at tourists, but all I saw were chickens and cats.

We jumped on the number 11 bus back to KL, I was utterly famished and we went for another splendid meal at the great restaurant across the road. The rest of the evening was spent with new friends at the Red Palm, chatting drinking beer and Tarqui Tea before bidding farewell to all, and hitting the sack. Scott and I were heading to Penang by bus early the next day, so a decent night's sleep was in the offing.

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